VIENNA 1954, SEEN THROUGH
THE EYES OF A RETURNING JEW.
Hitler's speech on the Heldenplatz, Vienna |
From
an untitled novel manuscript by journalist Elizabeth de Waal (b.1899),
published posthumously by her grandson, Edmund de Waal:
Kuno
Adler, who escaped to New York in 1938, returns to Vienna:
There he was, on the
Ring: the massive pile of the Natural History Museum on his right, the ramp of
the Parliament building on his left, beyond it the spire of the Town Hall,
andin front of him the railings of the Volksgarten and the Burgplatz…He sat
down on a bench in a deserted avenue, and wept.
In
postwar Vienna, Adler finds only a mild
kind of anti-Semitism, like a suppressed toothache, but the past is still very much alive.
He
encounters a scientist who had worked in a concentration camp, testing and researching with the only
biological material that can yield convincing results in the field of medical
science (he says) -- not with rats
and mice and rabbits, but with live human subjects…but I can tell you for your
comfort that our material – I mean my colleagues’ material—were not Jews. They
were gypsies.
The
infamous Heldenplatz, where Hitler gave a triumphant speech from the balcony of
the New Palace in 1938, is the locale of a new beginning for Adler. It is there
that he sees the woman he loves. He describes the Heldenplatz in romantic
terms:
What first meets the
eye and impresses the mind are the broad avenues of chestnut trees lining it on
three sides, chestnut trees that bear a profusion of red candles in the spring.
They give the square its peaceful, almost countrified look; they are conducive
to slow perambulation and quiet contemplation.
My
own recollections of the Heldenplatz are very different. The New Palace was headquarters to the
Allied Forces occupying Austria until 1955. Every week the armed guard rotated.
American, French, British, and Russian soldiers took their turn. When the
Russians were on duty, we children were told to take a different route to school. The Russians were known to
harass passersby and shake them down, especially women and girls. To them the
place was anything but conducive to quiet contemplation.
(Source: De Waal, The Exiles Return, 2013)